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Fork & Dagger: La Rumba delivers a coastal Mexican experience

Fork & Dagger: La Rumba delivers a coastal Mexican experience

The tampiquena steak was more of a platter than a dish. Photo: Saga Communications/Grub Scout


Editor’s Note: Fork & Dagger is 828newsNOW’s anonymous restaurant review series, written by our independent Grub Scout—no freebies, no press perks, no agenda. Grub Scout pays full price, visits unannounced, and takes notes on food, service, atmosphere, and value. Each review reflects a recent, honest experience rated on our 1‑to‑5 fork scale. We aim to help you discover standout dining spots—from casual diners to white‑tablecloth affairs—one bite at a time.

I love Mexican food, as any sane person does, but I often find myself craving a different take on it. Part of the appeal of actually traveling to Mexico would be finding villages and corners where I could discover nuanced differences that I’m not familiar with. In lieu of that expensive trip, I found a way to satisfy my curiosity: La Rumba, on Tunnel Road (the old Bonefish Grille, as long time residents say).

La Rumba specializes in the cuisine of Veracruz, Mexico, a coastal city where indigenous, Spanish, African and Afro-Caribbean influences come together. The menu highlights seafood, tropical fruits, plantains, peanuts and vanilla. But, enough history. I’ll get on with it.

The atmosphere was warm and hospitable, as one would expect, with a charming host and server. The booths were comfortable, and the lighting calming. The margarita was tasty, and you can’t go wrong with a big Negro Modelo on draught.

We began with elote, or Mexican street corn, which is grilled or roasted corn on the cob slathered with a cream sauce, often made with mayonnaise or crema, and then garnished with chili powder, lime juice and cotija cheese. It’s a delightful staple that’s brought to the table instead of the typical chips and salsa.

The classic shrimp ceviche
The classic shrimp ceviche

Next was the classic shrimp ceviche, marinated in fresh lime juice with onion, tomato, jalapeno, cucumber, avocado and cilantro, served with chips. This is one of my favorite dishes, and it did not disappoint.

Do not skip the plantanos maduros fritos, which are deep-fried plantains. These tropical fruits, similar to bananas, caramelize in their own sugars, creating a sweet yet savory treat. They are then topped with a sweet cream sauce.

The plantanos maduros fritos
The plantanos maduros fritos

The charro pinto beans with chorizo and bacon were perfectly cooked and quite decadent.

Then we had a couple entrees. The first was empanadas ahogadas: three handmade fried masa turnovers stuffed with potato and queso fresco, topped with housemade pork, adobo sauce, lettuce, pico de gallo, crema and black bean corn salad. The texture of the empanadas was ideal, and the pork was perfect.

Empanadas ahogadas
Empanadas ahogadas

The second was tampiquena steak: this was more of a platter than a dish. A very generous offering of thinly cut seasoned grilled sirloin, smothered with caramelized onions, thinly sliced poblano peppers and salsa verde, served with red rice, creamy fried black beans and chips. All of that, as well as delicious enchiladas in mole sauce. This will be a go-to dish for me. I absolutely loved it.

At this point, we were too full to even look at the dessert menu. Maybe next time.

They even have a cozy bar. This place is a true cultural gem, and I can’t wait to visit again.

Rating: 🍴🍴🍴🍴🍴

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